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JIRO’s Review of the Daegu Alley Tour: A Humanities Journey with a Cultural Tourism Guide

​Hello everyone, this is JIRO 

It’s been a while since our last post — how has everyone been doing?

Earlier this month, JIRO had the chance to visit Daegu.

By a wonderful coincidence, we joined a Daegu Alley Tour, and today we’d love to share that experience with you! 


Daegu Station

Cheongsachorong (Traditional Korean Lantern)
We signed up for the evening tour, and before it began, each of us received a Cheongsachorong (traditional Korean lantern)!

Walking around the city with it in hand made the whole experience feel a little more special.


Daegu Eupseong Fortress Site

The tour began with the story of the Daegu Eupseong Fortress.

We learned that an earthen fortress originally built during the reign of King Seonjo to defend against Japanese invasions was later reinforced during the reign of King Yeongjo, eventually becoming what was known as the Daegu Eupseong Fortress.

However...

During the period of the Japanese Residency-General, Japanese merchants continuously pushed for the fortress to be removed in order to expand their commercial influence. It is said that Park Jung-yang, who was serving as Daegu County Governor and acting governor of Gyeongsangbuk-do at the time, illegally demolished the fortress under the justification of expanding commercial areas and building roads. As a result, the fortress eventually disappeared...


Stone from the Daegu Eupseong Fortress Wall

Today, only these stones from the Daegu Eupseong Fortress remain in their original place.

Our guide shared that if the Daegu Eupseong Fortress had survived, it could have become an important cultural and historical landmark, much like Suwon Hwaseong Fortress today, serving as both a valuable heritage site and a tourism resource.

Hearing that made us feel a little sad as well.

Looking at the remaining stones, we couldn’t help but wish that the fortress had been preserved as part of Korea’s historical legacy. It reminded us of Gongsanseong Fortress that we introduced in our previous JIRO Letter featuring Gongju — a place where the traces of history have been carefully preserved through time.

Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herbal Medicine Culture Festival

Yakjeon Alley

Next, we headed to Yakjeon Alley, the place where the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herbal Medicine Culture Festival is held every year.

Since Daegu is located in a basin surrounded by mountains, medicinal herbs were readily available in the region. Combined with favorable climate conditions, this led to the establishment of Yangnyeongsi (the traditional herbal medicine market) during the 9th year of King Hyojong’s reign.

Even today, traditional herbal medicine shops and Korean medicine clinics continue to line the streets, and the Herbal Medicine Culture Festival is still held there every year.

Deep-Fried Ginseng

Deep-Fried Ginseng
The freshly made deep-fried ginseng at the festival tasted like something that could instantly make you feel healthier...!

The moment we took a bite, the rich aroma of ginseng filled our mouths — it was definitely one of the most memorable flavors of the day.

Ssanghwa Tea (Traditional Korean Herbal Tea)

There were also booths serving Ssanghwa Tea, along with displays where visitors could see and learn about various traditional herbal ingredients. Because of these experiences, we think Yangnyeongsi is at its best during the festival season!

(Thanks to the festival, JIRO definitely felt a little healthier by the end of the day)

Yeongnam-daero

Near Yakjeon Alley, there is Yeongnam-daero, the historic road that scholars once traveled on their way to Hanyang (present-day Seoul) to take the national civil service examinations.

We learned that even if they walked without much rest, the journey to Hanyang would still take around 14 to 15 days. It made us wonder — perhaps some of those scholars stopped by Yakjeon Alley to prepare herbal medicine before setting off on such a long journey.


Gyesan Cathedral
Next, we visited Gyesan Cathedral.

By then, the sky had grown darker, making the cathedral look even more beautiful in the evening atmosphere.

What stood out to us most was the stained glass seen from the side of the building. We noticed figures of Koreans wearing gat (traditional Korean hats), which made the cathedral feel even more unique and memorable.

Gyesan Cathedral is the third Gothic-style cathedral built in Korea and has a history spanning more than 100 years. It is also known as the place where former President Park Chung-hee held his wedding ceremony and where Cardinal Stephen Kim Sou-hwan received his ordination as a priest.

March 1st Independence Movement Road
This time, we headed to the March 1st Independence Movement Road.

March 8, 1919.

The March 1st Independence Movement, which had begun at Pagoda Park in Seoul, spread to Daegu on a local market day.

Back then, this path was covered with dense pine trees and served as a secret route that students used to avoid Japanese police surveillance while making their way to Seomun Market.

Students from Gyeseong School reportedly hid Korean national flags inside carts while traveling through this route, and students from Sinmyeong School, Daegu High School, and Bible schools later joined them in the movement.

Long live Korea’s independence!!

Jejungwon

Next, we visited Jejungwon, the first Western-style medical clinic established in Daegu by missionaries from the United States.

We learned that it later became the foundation of Keimyung University Dongsan Hospital.

Ivy Vines

We also learned that the missionaries planted many ivy vines because they reminded them of their hometowns.

Maybe that’s why we could spot ivy growing throughout the area.


Seomun Market
Finally, we arrived at Seomun Market, where our tour came to an end.

A huge thank you to our cultural tourism guide for sharing Daegu’s stories in such an engaging and memorable way ~~!

So, what did you think of this story-filled alley tour through Daegu??

Before joining the tour, we had already explored downtown Daegu on our own. But hearing the stories and historical background behind each place made the same locations feel much more interesting and meaningful.

And of course, it made the memories stay with us even longer!

We definitely recommend the alley tour program ~~!!

If you’d like to join the tour, you can apply through the Daegu Jung-gu website or register offline at Hyangchon Culture Center!


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